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356 Days Later - 29th April 2013

 

Swiss born eminent street style blogger, Facehunter (Yvan Rodic) is a born trend-spotter with a natural and synoptic eye for photography and an aspiration for current cultural happenings.  He began his blogging career by combining writing magazine features with snapping pictures of people at art events at his home in Paris. To capture such cultural developments, the blog-trotter began to post the results online, continuously encompassing new media through social networking . In 2006 Facehunter the blog was born and what better way to revel the globes street style than with his new book, “A Year In The Life of Facehunter,”. This new tome celebrates fashion through more than thirty of his favourite cities. We’re lucky enough to know the talented director behind the accompanying short film promo, Douglas Ray. Douglas accompanied Yvan to Paris for the AW13 shows earlier this year, gaining rare daily access to his daily life, we asked him what the experience was like. “Despite being the ultimate 'been there, done that' guy he would rarely tell me about the things he'd done, unless I asked. In fact he always seemed to prefer to listen to other people talk about their travels. Perhaps given the sheer volume of people he meets he has discovered the best way to be is to listen”. Following a clearly emblematic year-long travelling session around the domain, the resulting sensational book portrays interminable style through people watching, photographing and partying across 432,044 kilometres! Visiting up to three different countries a week and circling the globe countless times, Rodic has certainly been busy. Douglas commentated that the few days he was him in Paris was the longest Yvan had spent in any one place that year! It is not surprising then that the book is not only an assemblage of the best style from the streets but also a travel and inspiration diary; giving us a real insight into the blogger’s creative sources. Here are some snapshots of our favourite picks from the book, London to New York and Sydney to Amman.

 

His pictorial archive offer an extensive record of his personal tastes and original passion and we’ve rummaged through his tantalising visual diary to portray our favourite treasures so far!

 

A Year In The Life of Facehunter available from Thames & Hudson on Amazon.

See more of Douglas Ray's work at www.douglasray.co.uk

Dont Look Back In Anger - 15th April 2013

 

“Grunge is synonymous with the condition of youth and stands for fear of the future, ecological awareness, a feeling of helplessness, and the desperate search for new values.”  Hardly known as one of the most chic eras of the past century, merriment of the 90s was ostensible from New York to Paris last September.  Looking at street style, Rihanna recent line for River Island, its prevalence is everywhere. Such an overwhelming response looks as if it’s here to stay! Most predominantly we saw the renovation of grunge last Autumn on the catwalks of Givenchy, with Riccardo Tisci keeping it real whilst revisiting past collections mixing it up with deconstruction, Victoriana and x and y dress codes of androgyny which in turn seems to have taken the high street by storm.

Grunge & Glory by Steven Meisel - Vogue 1992

The 90s saw the phenomenon of androgyny, dishevelment and the most portent – grunge. A trend that lived and died on the streets, grunge was an anti-fashion – it wasn’t fashionable to be fashionable for working class hipsters and the more unkempt the better. It’s thought to have originated on the streets of Seattle, or better known as the worst dressed location with the best music scene.  Musical inspiration from the likes of Nirvana acted as a catalyst of the trend. Another key facilitator of the movement was Women’s Wear Daily proclaiming Marc Jacobs “guru of grunge”. Marc worked for Perry Ellis during the early 90s and it was his notorious grunge collection, shown at New York Fashion Week in 1992 that catapulted the hit and miss trend into the fashion ionosphere,. He educated the upper classes with bare midriffs, flannel shirts and intersexual granny florals. Fine fabrics were used however, without attempts to soften the overall visual impact appropriated by high fashion.  Established and respected designers took up the look with Karl Lagerfeld creating dresses for Chanel that were deliberately made to look crumpled and ill-kept.

 

Courtney Love

The grunge and “Heroin Chic” look of the 90s itself was advocated predominantly by model Kate Moss on the catwalks. This was compounded by her highly publicised Calvin Klein campaigns looking waif-like, emaciated and epicene. Heroin at the time had decreased in price, with its purity increasing dangerously, infiltrating youth idols like Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love – just another example of loves young dream.  The death of Grunge came only a year after, around the same time as musician Kurt Cobain shot himself through depression after using drug abuse.  A stint of unobtrusive “purism” from designers like Calvin Klein and Giorgio Armani bound from neutral palettes like greys and beiges abolished the previous trend all together, encouraging meaningful simplicity and the return of basic style, coinciding with “fools’ gold” as the recession lifted and the economic boom took place.

Kurt Cobain & Courtney Love’s wedding - Waikiki, 1992

90s TV Series 'My So Called Life' featuring Claire Danes & A.J. Langer

 

Recent reincarnation of the trend has seen designers revisit their own archives to portray their pre-eminence ready for A/W 2013. Nicole Farhi, Richard Nicoll and Chloe took inspiration from the asexual grunge phenomenon of the 90s. Paying homage to sport luxe we also saw the likes of DKNY and JW Anderson portraying an array of sport-influenced collegiate classics mixed with sheer maxi skirts and baggy trousers. To create a superb dishevelled effect, astonishingly though combining the 90s grunge trend with reliving of the Millennium was suggested by Mulberry and Marques’ Almeida. This was seen with the case of skirts worn over trousers, a distinct emphasis on flared jeans and Diesel Black Gold’s return to the profound embellished denim and distressed leather of its heritage. 

Mulberry A/W 13

 Marques Almeida A/W 13

Givenchy A/W 2013 

 

The 90s atheistic saw the amplification of by certain items and brands on the street including infamous Kickers. Other items de jour where crop top, logo t-shirts, sequin embellishment, tiny shorts, big hats, rainbow colours and tapered trousers. The silhouette was casual with boyfriend jeans making an appearance and a nod to a much looser sports and leisure silhouette than seen in the structured 80s.

90s Kays Catalogue

Tyra Banks & Susan Holmes - Gilles Bensimon, Elle USA 1993

Apprehensive? As per usual, pay attention to the likes of our favourite model of the moment Cara Delevingne, carrying off 90s grunge like it’s nobody’s business. Take a watch of the nineties-tastic short promotional film campaign for DSquared2’s Resort 2013 collection. Cara channels high octane 90s glamour with a look that is straight out of classics like “Saved By The Bell” and “Clueless”.  What’s the films sound? Destiny’s Child, in case you were wondering..buggerboo!

Cara Delevigne for Dsquared2 - 2013

De Nmes - 3rd April 2013

 

“I have often said that I wish I had invented blue jeans: the most spectacular, the most practical, the most relaxed and nonchalant. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity – all I hope for in my clothes.” Yves Saint Laurent . This month Rag & Bow creator Hazel talks about her Mum's 70's culottes in ASOS magazine's denim special. To celebrate we're delving into the history of this timeless fabric!

James Dean and Elvis in 1955

At the forefront of fashion for as long as one cares to remember, it’s about time that we appreciated the cultural fashion phenomenon of denim. From the streets to the catwalks, denim is ubiquitous! An Italian utility ‘trend’ that started as early as the 1600’s it was the renowned Levi Strauss who really got the ball rolling in 1873 when he was granted a patent for copper rivets in the stress point of work clothes. It was then during the 1940s when denim started to gain momentum as jeans and dungarees began to be issued as part of civilian work wear during the war effort in the USA. Additionally the growth of the wild west genre in cinematic film acted as a catalyst, further promoting jeans as a fundamental choice for men, and so the association between men and sexual attraction originated alongside that of homosexual connotation – a far cry from the New Look phenomenon proposed by Christian Dior at that time for the girls. With age comes revolution and for denim, fashion adaptations were and still are inevitable. In the 1970s silhouettes were dramatically different, with the rise and fall of hippy-luxe and bohemian bell bottoms, as well as the homage to Saturday Night Fever, ultimately immortalising the high waisted, bootcut flare! Dramatic diversity occurred towards the demise of the decade, with youth culture once again operating the fashion stakes – the era of the punks saw denim feature heavily alongside studs and spikes coinciding with leather and antagonism provoking embellishments.

The Sex Pistols & Debbie Harry for Vogue 1978

The marvel of nineties grunge saw the likes of Marc Jacobs introduce a collection of clothes inspired by youth culture, the streets and musical influences – a fashion interpretation of the heavy metal, alternative music popularised by bands like Nirvana and Pearl Jam. Dishevelled and unkempt was the look, as if the wearer had just rolled out of bed and grabbed the first garments they could grasp. In an era where media influence was everything, it was Calvin Klein who used this to his advantage by using underage models to showcase his denim designs provocatively, catapulting his career through the use of controversial print and TV advertisements with Brooke Shields telling the world that nothing could come between her and her Calvin’s.

Kate Moss in 1993 modelling for Calvin Klein Jeans by Mario Sorrenti 

Celebrity influence has long been a promoter of denim, with a profound archive of past and present features in the media. For instance, the usage of ‘original’ supermodels and public figures like Cindy Crawford and Shaquille O’neal in the early 1990s to portray the simplicity of an outfit, and “Denims New Dimensions” feature in Elle US in 1993, where photographer Gilles Bensimon showcased model Emma Sjoberg in an oversized denim waistcoat signalling a sign of trends to come.

Cindy Crawford with Shaquille O’Neal and Emma Sjoberg USA Elle 1993 

Not much has changed! The love for denim has intensified, the trend powering through the fashion world like never before. In 2009, Nylon magazine put out a street style feature with Peaches Geldof who wore an acid wash denim jumpsuit to take to the streets and find the source of epic denim. A must have for anybody’s wardrobe, Dazed and Confused featured a denim editorial almost a year later, with up and coming sensation Yulia Leonteiva getting between the sheets in her favourite street wear, photographed by Colin Dodgson sleeping in denim by Roy Rogers, Levi’s and Replay.

Yulia Leontieva in Dazed & Confused and Peaches Geldof for Nylon Magazine

 

An assortment of our favourite vintage denim icons, courtesy of ASOS's Magazine's denim special (above) portrays a variety of denim inspiration both past and present. Maintaining the denim phenomenon we see media sensations of the now like Rihanna and Alexa Chung acting as instantaneous advocates, paying deference to trends of the past and keeping them current with regards to the double denim and acid wash styles of the nineties, cigarette styles of the eighties and the dishevelment of androgynous dungarees and dresses. If it’s good enough for Alexa, it’s good enough for us (literally)!

Rag & Bow 80's Denim Dress £40 ASOS Marketplace